Monday, 1 January 2018

Swapping Heads.

I took a little time out from painting the 12th Australian Light Horse to respond to a request from Down Under to explain how I swap heads. Here is a brief photo tutorial. I recommend clicking on some of the images so that you can see what is going on a little clearer.

1. The essential tools.

2. Snip off the head. Aim to snip the head off above the collar line (apologies for not getting this shot in focus).

3. Another view of the head removal operation. Steady now! Have courage.... SNIP!

4. Removal complete.

5. The snips leave a raised area of metal that now needs to be filed flat.

6. Cleaned up and flattened neck.

7. Take a drill and drill into the centre of the neck to a depth of about 1.5mm

8. Neck with hole drilled into the centre.

9. Now take a scalpel and pare away the top of the hole to leave a "cupped" recess into which the new head will sit.

10. The "cupped" recess. Compare this with photo 8 and you will see the difference (hopefully).

11. Fill the "cupped" recess with a good quality superglue. Don't use the cheap "poundshop" rubbish. 

12. Place the new head into the recess. Hold for a few seconds and.....

13. ....Bob's yer uncle!


Peter Douglas said...

Thanks for the how to. You make it look so easy. I have problems putting heads on the Perry plastics sets sometimes!
Other sources I've seen use a pin on a head swap - you don't find you need them?
Cheers, Peter

Over Open Sights said...

I should point out, Peter, that the vast majority of the headswaps I do use the heads produced by Woodbine Designs. I have also used some of the Perry heads too. These separate heads come with "necks" that fit into the cupped recess that this method creates. On the very rare occasion where I have cut the head off one figure to transplant it onto the shoulders of another I have filed down the head I wish to use and then created a "neck" from a little greenstuff. I then create a cupped recess in the receiving figure. I find using pins unnecessary. The key is good quality superglue. The cheap stuff creates a bond that can be easily broken if a figure is dropped or treated roughly. I use Everbuild Industrial Grade glue. It comes in both low and high viscosity.

Peter Douglas said...

More useful tips. Thanks again Mark

AJ (Allan) Wright said...

Exactly how I do it. This is an excellent tutorial. Cheers.